Triops already lived 220 million years ago and are thus the oldest still living animal species






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General farming of the Triops

The farming of triops is generally quite simple.

It is a true joy for children as well as for ambitious nature lovers of the advanced age.
One will be able to observe the truly oldest and still living inhabitants of the earth from slipping.
The Triops also have one of the most extreme and fastest growth phases in the animal kingdom. So it is by no means boring to observe these prehistoric animals.

With a little bit of luck and skill, your triops will be sexually mature and put you new eggs in the sand, which you can start again after a dry phase and everything starts anew.

On this topic, I recommend reading the "breeding diaries!


Short instructions for general Triops farming:

(I will report on triopulation in general here and will not go into it individually in different ways!)

Equipment / approaches

If you have decided to make Triops your pets, you can order an inexpensive complete set with all the necessary utensils for successful triop breeding. If you already have aquariums or smaller pools with aquarium equipment, you can save yourself a lot of money.

Bewährtes Equipment für eine Triopszucht:

    • 12 liters of aquarium
    • 1-2 liters breeding basin (AZB)
    • Lighting (aquarium lighting, or even a desk lamp, main she does not warm the AZB!)
    • Fine quartz sand for the aquaristic (no bird sand or Chinchillasand!)
    • Diaphragm air pump with hose and air outlet for sufficient air supply (only in the large tank!)
    • Possibly heating element, depending on the type of tripping
    • Water plants (e.g., water spill or mosquito)
    • Food (At the beginning: dust feed, Later: Frozen food, normal fish feed)
    • Accessories: thermometer, landing net

      Approach

      If a self-harvested breeding approach is used, it should be processed in any case. To do this, the sand must first be extremely dried and then placed in a freezer for about 1 - 2 weeks in a tight plastic bag. The approach is now ready at all times. Afterwards, the batch can be kept dry for an indefinite period (at least 30 years) without the eggs dying or losing quality.

      Start the main pool

      Before tripping, the main pool should be set up and filled and the equipment installed. (This is only necessary if a main and breeding pool is used, which is recommended.)

      Here you will find, with many pictures explained how to install the main pool, set up and run in:


      "Install and set up the main pool"


      Start Triops breed

      The small breeding basin (1 - 5 liters) is then used to make the triops and is washed thoroughly with hot tap water without cleaning agent.
      Now pour the breeding batch (eggs are between the sand), or as required, only half, into the breeding pool. Subsequently, the breeding water (distilled water recommended!) Is poured over it. The whole one is now hangs in the possibly heated main pool, so one has the appropriate temperature and keeps this relatively constant.
      Important is now also a good lighting, which should be switched on about 12 hours a day. For this purpose, e.g. Use a desk lamp. These should not be too close to the water to prevent the water from overheating.

      Now it's time to wait.

      Here you will find, with many pictures explained, how to set up the breeding pool with the trioprobe approach:

      "Cultivate the breeding basin"


      The slip

      After 22 - 48 hours (depending on the type, temperature, water ...) most of the Triopsnauplien should have hatched. However, it can also sometimes last over a week!

      Here you can see the pictures described " Nauplia stadiums "

      In the first 2 - 3 days, the Triops is actually not a triop.
      He runs through only four naturopathies, in which he continues to develop, in order to become a true triops afterwards.
      These naturos are very sensitive and not even a millimeter in size.
      At first they just shrug, and later they move jerkily through the basin.

      The first food

      From about 2 days after the hatching (for example, when the Triops have the Nauplienstadien behind them and look like small triops and move smoothly through pools) one can slowly begin to feed some dust feed.

      The best way to do this is to take a disposable syringe from the supermarket, remove the end, fill in a small amount of dust food (only one toothpick tip full), set the end up again and push it all the way to the front, draws water from the rearing tank, Holding a finger to the top and shaking the syringe. Now you can fill the syringe contents dropwise into the breeding pool.

      Feeding is basically less than too much. In case of doubt feed less and less, as too much food can cause the water to tilt very quickly.

      The first days of feeding are fed only once a day (with algae powder).

      If the triops are then 1cm tall you can feed 2 times a day. But also little.

      It is best to feed small amounts of food each time 2-3 times a day when the triops are over 1.5 cm in size.
      If you feed only once a day, but then quite a lot, there is the danger that not everything can be eaten and some of it rotten and rotten.

      Here you can find all the information about " feeding "

      Finally a Triops

      Here you can see the anatomy of the fully developed Triops "

      After these 2 - 3 days, which is the Triops in the Nauplienstadien, becomes from the almost helpless animal a real about 3-4 mm triops. This moves skillfully and evenly through the water and now has the typical triops shape.
      Now it is time to offer finely ground feed (e.g., dust feed) to the triops. For this purpose, e.g. Simple commercial flake food for fish.
      If necessary, one could, if the triops are about 0.8 mm in size, introduce an air pump into the basin, but is not absolutely necessary.
      If the triops are larger than 6-7 mm, small crumbs of the rearing chickens can be used. From about 1cm also frozen or dried water animals like mosquito larvae.
      From 2 cm in size, the tricops from freeze-dried mosquito larvae over deep-frozen water fleas to power feeding balls can be enough.

      Time for the move

      From 2 - 2.5 cm body size the triops are ready to move into their larger main pool.
      This basin should have a sand bottom and a air filter.
      Plants would also be useful and keep the water somewhat more stable as they draw excess nutrients out of the water. Here is the fast growing water spill.
      Illumination is to be used depending on the type of trioptic and solar irradiation. (In Triops cancriformis, for example, it is not necessary if the pool receives some sunlight.)
      The implementation should be prepared a few days before.
      For this purpose, about 1-2 days before the actual transfer, about 1/4 - 2/4 of the rearing tank is filled with water from the main pool. Before, with a hose, some water is sucked from the breeding pool and also sucks up the mud and dirt from the ground.
      After this preparation, on the day of the conversion, the water is always filled from the main pool to the breeding pool approximately half-hourly. This is then repeated 3 to 6 times and then you can release the triops with a landing net or spoon into the main pool. If the water values ​​in the main pool are similar in the breeding basin from the hardness, one can do the whole also in about 2 hours. For this you take a bowl, which is filled first with water from the rearing pool and places the triops inside. Now some water is poured from the main pool every 20 - 30 minutes. After 2 hours the triops are ready for the move.

      The days are counted

      Now the Triops is busy eating, growing and laying eggs all day long. They reach sexual maturity after about 8 - 14 days.
      They are then able to lay 60 - 200 eggs per day.
      In their lifetime, they reach a length of 5 to 14 (which, however, very rarely occurs) cm. They reach an age of 6 - 14 weeks.

      Heritage store

      It is sad, though, that the Triops, who have been known since their birth, bless their temporal, but they have cloned themselves to 1000s.
      The eggs are buried in the sand very difficult to recognize.
      If all triops have died, you should drain the water and allow the sand to air dry for about 3 - 6 weeks. Now the eggs are ready for a preparation (airtight for about 2 weeks in the freezer) and you can then put them back again and everything starts again from the front. If the dried sand is sealed in plastic bags, the eggs can be stored in this condition for up to 30 years or even longer.

      For those who have the highest possible yield during the egg harvest, I recommend to regularly remove the sand with the eggs when the triops are still alive. This can be done when the triops have a size of approx. 3 - 4 cm. It is best to use deep spoons or coffee spoons. Every 2 - 4 days you can re-harvest. This is advisable, because the laid eggs often slip in the water of the parents and about 2 weeks after the laying or earlier. By the way, the triops usually lay the eggs in the same place. One must therefore often observe, where the Triops dig up and then there remove the sand regularly (1-2 times a week).




      Important:

      Despite the relatively simple attitude, one should be able to observe the following points:

      Feed regularly

      Triops can reach an age of 8 - 14 weeks. You should be able to feed the Triops during this time at least once or twice a day.

      Regular controll

      Triops have a very fast metabolism due to their short but intense life, which can lead to a sudden deterioration of the water. So if the water begins to become cloudy, stink and fodder remnants, you have to carry out a water change.
      If these two points are to be observed for you, there is (almost) nothing in the way of keeping and breeding the oldest still living animal species.


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